Word travels fast these days so you may have already heard our exciting news, but even so, we just wanted to say how delighted we are to be partnering with Sam’s Club in their unprecedented move into the natural skin care market. It has always been our dream to make Sophyto organic skin care products accessible to all women and, now, thanks to Sam’s Club, we can.

Starting next month we will be launching into 150 branches of Sam’s Club and the retailer has a whole host of exciting plans to help members understand the beauty of natural and organic skin care, including the presence of in-store demonstrators twice a week for the first three months who’ll be on hand to extol the virtues of the products and their natural ingredients.

Sophyto is hugely proud to have been chosen to take this incredible journey with Sam’s Club into the retail sector and we all look forward to sharing our love of great, uncompromising skin care to women all across the US.

Exciting developments are afoot at Sophyto HQ. So, sit tight and watch this space for more soon…

We promise it will be worth the wait.

With love,

The Sophyto Team x

Getting too far under your skin, that is…?

In esthetics, when we talk about penetration, it is important to specify the level at which a particular substance can penetrate. The level of penetration of a cosmetic formula is directly related to its depth of action as well as the purpose/goal/aim of that formula.

Levels of Percutaneous Penetration:

• 

  Contact: Where cosmetic formulas make contact with the outermost layer of the skin, the stratum corneum, but do not penetrate. Their main action is cleansing the skin and are easily wiped clean. All cleansers are considered contact cosmetics. Products from the Sophyto range with contact properties: Ultra Mild Silken Cleanser; Deep Pore Foaming Cleanser; Dual Action Exfoliating Treatment;

• Impregnation: Where cosmetic formulas stay on the surface of the skin to protect them and/or provide colour. These formulas should be easily removed and they do not penetrate the skin. Sunscreens and colour cosmetics are some examples of impregnation cosmetics.

• Absorption: Where some active ingredients can make their way down  into the 12th layer of the stratum corneum to protect them against the environmental aggressors. Day and nightmoisturisers fall into this category:
  

Products from the Sophyto range with absorption properties: Mega Omegas Day Face Moisturiser Marine Peptide Brightening Treatment;

• Penetration: Where formulas of small molecular size, such as those containing fat-soluble vitamins and amino acids, can penetrate into the spinous and basal layers of the epidermis.

Products from the Sophyto range with penetration properties: Purify & Energise Super Bioactive; Tone & Balance Super Bioactive; Polyphenol Skin Drops; Multivitamin Skin Drops;

• Reabsorption: Where a formula crosses the epidermis and reaches the blood vessels located at the dermal and subcutaneous level in order to be distributed throughout the body. Substances with such characteristics are considered drugs and not cosmetics.

What’s the difference between a topical drug and a cosmetic?

• A cosmetic is a product that is applied locally and has a local effect.

• A drug (topical) is a product that is applied locally but has a systemic (further reaching) effect.

Whats the deal with penetration enhancers?

A penetration enhancer is, as its name indicates, an agent that improves percutaneous penetration of ingredients to provide fast and long-lasting results.

While not all penetration enhancers are toxic per se, it is a fact that they make penetration of toxic/harsh chemicals even easier.

Commonly used penetration enhancers:

• Aloe Vera
• Bisabolol
• Lecithin
• Anionic Surfactants such as SLS (toxic)
• Fat-soluble vitamins (Synthetic vitamin A is toxic - if Vitamin A is required, it should ALWAYS be applied in whole food form)
• AHAs & BHAs  (pH disruptor)
• Liposomes
• Microcapsules
• Micronized particles (toxic)
• Nanoparticles (toxic)

If a penetration enhancer is to be used, it is important to take two aspects into consideration:

• The penetration enhancer MUST NOT be toxic

• Toxic/harsh ingredients MUST NOT be added to the formula

As we said before, the so-called ‘selective permeability’ of the skin is not fail-safe. It is important to remember that several commonly used chemicals in skin care do end up in our bloodstream and are carcinogenic, genotoxic, immunotoxicants, endocrine disruptors, etc.

Facilitating the penetration of noxious substances would be a humongous mistake - one that could potentially be extremely detrimental to our health.

Ishtar Magally Mobarak

It might have touched your triple mocha whip decaf and be lingering in your shampoo, but is Methylene Chloride safe for such uses? In a word: NO.

Formula: CH₂Cl₂

Systematic name: dichloromethane

Also listed as: methylene chloride, methylene dichloride, solmethine, narkotil, solaesthin, Di-clo, Freon 30, R-30, DCM, UN 1593, MDC.

Definition: Methylene chloride is a non-flammable, volatile, noxious and colourless liquid with a moderately sweet aroma. It is widely used as a solvent and paint/varnish remover; degreaser, refrigerant and aerosol spray propellant.

Methylene chloride has also been used to prepare extracts of hops and flavorings as well as to decaffeinate coffee and teas.

In the cosmetic industry it is found in shampoos and perfumes.

Dangers:

• Carcinogenic.

• Genotoxicant.

• Linked to toxicity of the immune system/allergies.

• Linked to neurotoxicity.

• Strong skin, eyes and lung irritant.

• Causes reproductive and developmental toxicity.

Our Rating: Ultra Nasty, avoid at all costs.

Warning: Methylene chloride has been proven to be a carcinogenic; it was banned by the FDA in 1988. Its high volatility makes it an acute inhalation hazard. Acute exposure by inhalation has resulted in optic neuropathy and hepatitis. Once absorbed it is stored in body fat, metabolizes to carbon monoxide potentially leading to carbon monoxide poisoning and reduces the oxygen-carrying capacity of the blood.

Prolonged skin contact can result in skin irritation or chemical burns (methylene chloride can dissolve some of the fatty tissues of the skin).

Pregnant women should especially steer clear of methylene chloride as it has been shown to cross the placenta.

Central nervous system disorder, headache, giddiness, stupor, irritability, fatigue and tingling in the limbs are some of the effects of methylene chloride.

So, spread the word to all your friends: ditch the decaf! Ditch the beer! And check your perfumes and shampoos for evil methylene chloride too. If it’s in it, bin it.

I don’t know about you but just thinking about these macaroons is making my mouth water! Thank goodness it’s Friday, eh? No time like the present to indulge in something sweet… and if sweet orange isn’t to your liking, how about peppermint? Or rose? Using essential oils throws up endless possibilities.

You will need:

• 1/4 cups confectioners’ (icing) sugar
• 1/3 cups almond flour (available in most health-food stores)
• 1/2 tablespoons unsweetened Dutch-process cocoa powder
• 5 large egg whites, at room temperature
• 2/3 cup granulated sugar
• 2 tablespoons water
• 1/4 cup heavy cream
• 1 teaspoon light corn syrup
• 1/2 ounces bittersweet chocolate, coarsely chopped
• 2 drops total of either Sweet Orange, Peppermint, Lavender, Neroli, Lemon, Rose, or Mandarin essential oil.
• A candy (sugar) thermometer
  

How to do it

1. Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C) and position racks in the upper and lower thirds. Line 2 baking sheets  with parchment paper.

2. In a large, wide bowl, using a large rubber spatula or a hand-held electric mixer, mix the confectioners’ sugar with the almond flour and cocoa powder. Add two of the egg whites and mix until evenly moistened.

3. In a small saucepan, combine the granulated sugar with the water and bring to a boil; using a moistened pastry brush, wash down any crystals from the side of the pan. Boil over high heat until the syrup reaches 240°F on a candy thermometer.

4. In another large bowl, using clean beaters, beat the remaining three egg whites until soft peaks form. Add one drop of your favorite essential oil now. With the mixer at high speed, carefully drizzle the hot sugar syrup over the egg whites and beat until the meringue mixture is firm and glossy.

5. Stir one-fourth of the meringue into the almond-cocoa mixture. Using a rubber spatula, fold in the remaining meringue. Transfer the meringue to a pastry bag fitted with a plain 1/2-inch tip; pipe onto the prepared baking sheets in 1 1/2-inch mounds, spacing them about 1 inch apart. Tap the sheets and let dry at room temperature for 15 minutes.

6. Transfer the meringues to the oven and immediately turn off the heat. Bake the meringues for five minutes. Turn the oven on to 400°F again and bake the meringues for eight minutes, until the meringues are puffed and the tops are firm and glossy. Transfer the baking sheets to racks and let the meringues cool completely.

7. Meanwhile, in a small saucepan, combine the cream with the corn syrup and bring to a boil. Remove from the heat. Add the chocolate and let stand until melted (about five minutes). Add one drop of your favorite essential oil now. Whisk until smooth. Transfer the ganache to a bowl and let cool to room temperature, whisking occasionally; it will become very thick.

8. Carefully peel the meringues off the parchment paper. Spoon the ganache into a small pastry bag fitted with a 1/4-inch tip. Alternatively, use a reuseable sturdy plastic bag and snip off a corner. Pipe the ganache onto the flat sides of half of the meringues.

9. Top with the remaining meringues to create your macaroons and they are ready serve - if you can manage not to eat them all by yourself, of course!

If you manage to make these little beauties, send us a picture and we’ll compare notes!

Françoise Rapp

Essential oils are the pure quintessence of the plant and their powerful aroma can be used in many ways in our daily life. Cooking with essential oils can enliven your dishes, desserts and drinks with original flavors and your creativity may just burst out the kitchen.

As a real apprentice alchemist, you will enjoy the versatility and outstanding taste it will add to your meals. Therefore, there are some cautions to be aware of before starting to use them in the kitchen: the quality should be pure, organic, and NOT compromised. It is highly recommended to use ONLY therapeutic grade essential oils because of the high purity of their quality compared to “standard” items that may contain solvents, and fats that are toxic for your health and should not be ingested!

I suggest you create your aromatherapy kitchen kit with simple, basic and well-known essential oils. The essential oils will replace your common herbs and spices and you may use them accordingly to your cooking habits.

Here are the best ones to consider: Basil, Peppermint, Cinnamon, Lavender, Neroli, Lemon, Sweet Orange, Rose, Fennel, Sage, Thyme, Rosemary.

Essential oils taste very strong and just one drop is usually enough to flavor an entire dish. Be very cautious NOT to overdo it.

You can use essential oils in the following dishes: Salad dressings and side dressings, soups, stews, gravy, marinade, desserts (cakes, cookies, and home-made ice cream), cocktails and smoothies.

There is another important matter that you should be aware of when using essential oils in the kitchen: they do NOT mix well with plastic! And some kinds of plastic can be broken down by essential oils when left for a while (for instance, when preparing in advance a large size dish to keep in the fridge). It’s therefore safer to simply use essential oils in glass or metal containers, with metal or wooden spoons, so there is no risk of plastic contamination in your food.

• Lavender: add one drop to a cake or French crepes, ice cream, smoothies, liquid honey.

• Sweet Orange: add one drop to any dessert - especially when chocolate is primary! Chocolate fondue, macaroons (keep an eye for our “Pierre Hermé ” macaroon recipe with essential oil this Friday!), any drinks and cocktails.

• Neroli (orange blossom flavor): add one drop to a cake or French crepes, ice cream or smoothies, or liquid honey.

• Peppermint: add one drop to desserts such as chocolate ice cream, summer cocktails and drinks.

• Sage, Thyme, Laurel: add one to two drops to winter stews and soups.

• Basil, fennel, : add one drop to salad dressings, side dressings, summer vegetable stews and gazpacho, fish dishes.

• Cinnamon: add one drop to desserts (cakes, cookies, apple pies and COMPOTE) and liquid honey,

• Rose: add one drop to vanilla ice cream, lemonade. Be creative!

• Lemon: add one drop to salad dressings, side dressings, summer vegetable stews and gazpacho, fish dishes, desserts and drinks.

Where to purchase trustful therapeutic grade of essential oils.

www.combedase.com

www.floracopeia.com

Françoise Rapp

While being a naturally derived ingredient, Linalool may be one to avoid for certain individuals…

Formula: C10H18O

Systematic name: 3,7-dimethylocta-1,6-dien-3-ol

Also listed as: β-linalool; linalyl alcohol; linaloyl oxide; p-linalool; allo-ocimenol; linalool essential oil; 2,6-dimethyl-2,7-octadien-6-ol; 3,7-dimethylocta-1,6-dien-3-ol

Definition: a colourless, fragrant, liquid *terpene distilled from the oils of flowers and spice plants (*terpene: an unsaturated hydrocarbon obtained from plants). Linalool is used as a chemical intermediate, flea/cockroach insecticide, in cleaning agents (soaps, detergents, shampoos, etc.) and in perfumery. Vitamin E is a downstream product of linalool.

In the cosmetic industry, Linalool is found in: facial cleanser, facial moisturiser, anti-ageing treatment, body wash, shampoo, conditioner, hair color/bleaching, styling gel/lotion and fragrances.

Dangers:

• Linked to cancer in government, industry or academic studies/assessments.
• Linked to toxicity of the immune system/allergies.
• Moderate skin, eyes and lung irritant.
• Causes moderate toxicity of the cardiovascular, digestive and respiratory system

Our Rating: Good. Ingredients derived from citrus essential oils should not come in concentrations higher than 4% as most of them are phototoxic.

Warning: Linalool, when in contact with oxygen, breaks down forming a by-product that may cause allergic reactions such as eczema in susceptible individuals.

Ishtar Magally Mobarak

• Contains high levels of antioxidants. Papaya is rich in Papain, an enzyme which can digest intercellular bonds. This enzyme has been shown to be effective in treating hypertrophic scars (swollen, red) and keratotic skin lesions (rough, scaly patches - sometimes red/brown) It has also been used in the treatment of cuts, rashes, skin sores, stings and burns.

• Papaya’s powerful fruit enzymes are known to aid and accelerate healing in skin disorders, such as acne. In addition, the fruit enzymes gently exfoliate the skin without stripping its natural oils. Papaya reduces wrinkles, hydrates and nourishes the skin. Its beta-carotene content protects the skin, promotes skin elasticity and speeds up the formation of new skin cells.

Recipe of the week: Tropical Cell Renewal Mask (for all skin types)

You will need:

• 1 tsp. mashed Papaya
• 2 pumps of Sophyto Dual Action Exfoliating Treatment
• Sophyto Super Bioctive, Polyphenol Skin Drops and/or Multivitamin Skin Drops and Day Face Moisturiser of your choice (if you have them).
  

How to do it:

• Blend ingredients.
• On cleansed skin, massage mask on face, neck and décolleté with a gentle circular motion. Leave on for 5 minutes.
• Dampen a soft towel/flannel with warm water and wipe the skin clean.
• Finish with Super Bioactive, Polyphenols and/or Multivitamin Drops and the Day Face Moisturiser of your choice.
• Enjoy your fresh, newly hydrated and plumped-up skin!

Ishtar Magally Mobarak

The skin’s permeability is a big topic so we’re going to break it down into two parts to make it a little easier to absorb…

Part 1:  What goes into the skin and how?

The skin has a rather limited function as an absorption organ due to its protective nature. The layers of the skin and their chemistry provide a barrier that prevents harmful elements from penetrating but does allow absorption of other substances (especially fat-soluble) - this is what is known as selective permeability.

Among the defense mechanisms that condition the selective permeability of the skin we can find:

• The Electro-Physical Barrier of Rein: this is the electric resistance of the skin and represents an impenetrable barrier for certain substances. The surface of the epidermis has a negative polarity which repels bacteria and other micro-organisms with the same electric charge. The deeper epidermal layer - the stratum granulosum - has a positive electrical charge whereas the subcutaneaous tissue/layer has a negative electric charge. It has been shown that both massage and beauty equipment can reduce the electric resistance of the skin and improve penetration of active ingredients.

• Trans-epidermal Penetration: this means that a substance will penetrate via the epidermis. The key structural material that makes up the epidermal layers of the skin is keratin. Keratin is a tough, fibrous and insoluble protein that is also the chief constituent of hair and nails. Keratin imparts waterproof/protective properties to epidermis. The chemical properties of keratin along with the imbricated (regularly arranged, overlapping) disposing of the epidermal layers of the skin constitute an anatomical barrier against the penetration of certain substances. In esthetics, microdermabrasion as well as substances that exfoliate dead skin cells from the horny layer are used to enhance the penetration of active ingredients.

• Trans-appendage Penetration: This refers to the penetration of substances through the opening of the sebaceous (ostia) and sweat glands (pores) in the epidermis. The hair follicle contains sebum secreted by the sebaceous gland; therefore, only substances that can emulsify with the sebum components can penetrate through the ostia. Water can penetrate through the pores, though it might be rejected by the electro-osmotic flow that pushes sweat outside the body.

Is Selective Permeability fail-safe?

In spite of all the permeability defensive mechanisms, there are several substances that easily, readily and deeply penetrate the skin. It is important to mention that some of these substances are strong toxicants and their use should be avoided at all costs.

Metalloids:

• Arsenic
• Sulphur/Sulfur (and its derivatives)
• Boric acid
• Thallium
• Iodine

Metals:

• Lead
• Mercury

Phenols:

• Salicylic acid
• Resorcinol (resorcin)
• Pyrogallol

Vitamins (fat-soluble):

• A, D, E, K

Hormones (steroids):

• Sex steroids: androgens, estrogens, progestagens.

• Corticosteroids: glucocorticoids and mineralocorticoids.

Technology (used as penetration enhancers):

• Liposomes
• Microcapsules
• Micronized particles
• Nanoparticles

In the second part of this article we will review the different penetration levels of cosmetics and topical drugs and explain why certain ingredients commonly used in skin care as penetration enhancers could actually wreak havoc on our health.

Ishtar Magally Mobarak

Can something used in paint stripper be safe for our skin too?

Formula: C₁₀H₁₆

Systematic name: 1- methyl -4-isopropenpylcyclohexene

Also listed as: 4-isopropenyl-1-methylcyclohexene, DL-limonene (recemic), DL - limonene, dipentene, 1- methyl -4-isopropenpylcyclohexene, limonene essential oil, R-limonene.

Definition: Limonene is a liquid *terpene with a characteristic lemon-like aroma found in lemons, oranges, peppermint and other essential oils. (*a terpene is an unsaturated hydrocarbon obtained from plants.) It is used as a wetting/dispersing agent, as a solvent, paint stripper and in the manufacture of resins.

Limonene is also used as a botanical insecticide and flavouring; it is added to cleaning products to give a lemon-orange fragrance, is considered a bio-fuel and serves as an aromatic compound/preservative in cosmetic formulas.

In the cosmetic industry, it is found in: bar soap, facial cleanser, facial moisturiser, anti-ageing treatment, acne treatment, body wash, bath oil/salts/soak, shampoo, conditioner, foot moisturiser, exfoliant/scrub, body oil, lip stick, lip gloss, toothpaste, muscle joint soreness, hand cream, hair colour/bleaching, styling gel/lotion and fragrances.

Dangers:

• Linked to cancer in government, industry or academic studies/assessments.

• Linked to developmental and reproductive toxicity.

• Strong skin, eyes and lung irritant.

• Immune system toxicant.

• Linked to toxicity of wildlife/environment.

• Causes moderate toxicity of the cardiovascular, digestive and respiratory system.

• Moderate occupational hazard: chemical handling or routine occupational exposures.

Our Rating: Good. But ingredients derived from citrus essential oils should not come in concentrations higher than 4% as most of them are photo-toxic (becomes toxic when exposed to light).

Warning: flammable liquid.

Limonene is a skin/respiratory irritant and skin sensitiser. People who are allergic/sensitive to essential oils or ingredients derived from essential oils should refrain from using formulas containing limonene as they can cause contact dermatitis.

Ishtar Magally Mobarak