I realise it might seem a bit cruel talking about sun exposure to those who have been drowning like rats in the UK… but as you will see below, if we use computers or light bulbs(!), SPFs are something we should be thinking about all year round. So, why do we turn brown or red in the sun? And how can we optimise the former and restrict the latter? SOPHYTO’s bioesthetician Ishtar Magally has a few suggestions:

Sun-tanning

A sun tan is the skin’s defense mechanism against UV radiation to prevent further DNA damage. Skin exposure to moderate UVA radiation triggers the release, and subsequent oxidation, of melanin granules into the epidermal layers of the skin causing a quick but lasting tan. On the other hand, moderate exposure to UVB rays stimulates the melanocyte cells into secreting more melanin to produce a slow developing tan.

Sun Burn

Chronic sun exposure destroys cells. To protect themselves the damaged cells release histamine, a protein involved in allergy reactions. Histamine triggers an inflammatory response as a way of protecting the skin from further damage, which appears as varying degrees of redness. However, other - sometimes less visible - effects include: melasma, hyperkeratosis (thickening of the skin), solar elastosis (degeneration of connective tissue, leading to wrinkled, sagging skin) and skin cancer.

Nb. A sun burn NEVER turns into a sun tan.

How to keep your skin looking great, while enjoying the sun:

• Use fresh sunscreen; sunscreen can lose its potency. It is recommended that you purchase a new bottle every year.

• Get at least 20 minutes of UV rays daily without sunscreen (preferably before 10 a.m or after 4 pm) to get your dose of natural vitamin D.
  

  

• Use a sunscreen with an SPF of 15 or higher every day. Apply 1 ounce (2 tbs) of sunscreen to dry skin - all over - 30 minutes before going outside. Re-apply every 2 hours, or immediately after swimming or excessive sweating. Re-apply at least every 2 hours, or immediately after sweating profusely. Water resistant sunscreens need to be re-applied every 40 minutes. If using a very water resistant sunscreen make sure you re-apply it after 80 minutes of water exposure.

• Wear protective clothes, such as a broad-brimmed hat and sunglasses (the eyes are not capable of generating natural defense mechanisms against UV radiation like the skin does).

• Apply sunscreen whenever you are exposed to light bulbs, lamps, TVs, computers, etc as well. These are artificial sources of radiation and can also cause skin damage.

• Beware of ingredients such as PABA and its derivatives (carcinogenic), benzophenone and its derivatives (suspected photo-carcinogens), as well as nano and micro particles (due to their size they can enter the bloodstream and invade the body’s natural defense systems as well as be more reactive and toxic than larger sized particles).

• Even if the weather is overcast, use sunscreen: UVA A and UVA B can still reach human skin.

• Do not expose yourself to solar radiation if you have recently suffered from sunstroke and/or sun burns.

• Protect children with special sunscreens that provide extra moisture and block both UVA and UVB rays.

• Avoid sun exposure if taking or using photo-sensitizing substances, including some antibiotics (tetracyclines, sulfamides), contraceptives, essential oils, colorants, etc. as they can cause irritation and/ or melasma.

• Seek the shade, especially during the peak hours (between 10am and 4pm).

• Remember that altitude and topography affect how much radiation you will experience. The higher the altitude, the stronger the intensity of radiation and the reflection of solar rays varies according to the surface: snow reflects 85% of radiation; sand 20-40%; water 5–10%, grass 3-5%, etc.

• Avoid tanning and UV tanning booths; they are a source of artificial radiation (primarily UVA) which causes the same adverse effects as harmful sun rays. The high-pressure sunlamps emit 12 times as much UVA as that of the sun. According to a recent study, people who use tanning booths are 1.5 times more likely to develop basal cell carcinoma and 2.5 times more likely to develop squamous cell carcinoma. The first tanning bed exposure in youth increases melanoma risk by 75%. Opt for natural self-tanning lotion and/or airbrush tanning.

• Consult your dermatologist if you notice any unusual skin growth, irritation and/or lesion.

What to eat to boost your protection

Antioxidants help to protect us against UV radiation, so eating antioxidant-rich foods can really boost your skin’s natural defences:

• Cocoa (dark chocolate): contains 4 times as many phenols and catechins (antioxidants) as tea. These antioxidants protect our skin from sunburn and skin cancer. Milk should not be added to the chocolate as it interferes with the absorption of its antioxidants. Recommended dose: 2 ounces of dark chocolate daily. (Wow, that’s a fair bit of chocolate… You don’t need to tell me twice…I’m on board with this one, for sure. Who knew it was so good for us!)

• Green and black teas: rich in polyphenols - one of the most powerful botanical antioxidants known today. They offer unrivalled action against free radical exposure which is responsible for 80% of skin ageing and can boost your skin’s antioxidant protection from the inside out. According to a study, drinking two or more cups of either black or green tea reduces the risk of developing squamous cell skin cancer by 30%.

• Micro-algae: eg. chlorella and spirulina, contain a carotenoid called Astaxanthin, which is 550 times more powerful than Vitamin E, and it has been shown to protect the skin and eyes against Ultraviolet radiation.
  

• Carotenoids: are antioxidants which reduce the negative effects of UVB radiation. Carotenes are unoxygenated carotenoid compounds which provide pigment to fruits and vegetables. This pigment is used by plants as sunscreen and can activate melanin. Foods containing high concentrations of carotenes are: apricots, papaya, mango, carrots, sweet potatoes and beets.

• Lycopene: is a red carotenoid which protects the skin against sunburn and skin cancer (has an SPF of about 3). Foods high in lycopene include watermelon, tomatoes, papaya, pink guava, red bell peppers and pink grapefruit. Watermelon is especially rich in lycopene, it contains 40% more lycopene than tomatoes.

• Pomegranates: contain powerful polyphenol compounds such as catechins and anthocyanins which strengthen the skin`s upper layers, thus increasing its resistance to harmful UV rays.

• Tocotrienols: are a group of compounds which belong to the Vitamin E family. They are 30-60 times more powerful than tocopherols thus, they neutralize free radical activity at a faster rate. Tocotrienols are capable of reducing/absorbing penetration of UV radiation. Barley, rye, oats, annatto oil, rice bran oil and palm oil are natural, rich sources of tocotrienols.

• Vitamin C: prevents premature ageing and skin cancer by warding off free radicals. The best natural sources of Vitamin C are acerola cherry, rose hip, berries, guava, kiwi, papaya and all citrus fruits.

• Vitamin D: it protects against many types of cancer, including skin cancer. Supplementation is advisable for people who live in areas with long winters and/or people who do not sunbathe.

• Broccoli: has anti-cancerous effects and is rich in an antioxidant called sulphoraphane. A research showed that sulphoraphane helps body cells to protect themselves against the ravages of UV radiation.

• Green leafy vegetables: according to a study, spinach, kale and swiss chard may reduce risk of squamous cell skin cancer by 50 percent.

• Omega 3 fatty acids: can reduce inflammation, protect your skin from sunburn and melanoma (a deadly form of skin cancer). Salmon, sardines, herring, mackerel, algae/seaweed, green leafy vegetables, flax, hemp and chia seeds are rich sources of Omega 3 fatty acids.

• Orange peels: 1 tsp. per week reduces the risk of squamous cell skin cancer.

• Histidine-rich foods: stimulate healthy production of urocanic acid (a natural photo-protectant). Although adult humans produce this amino acid, it is believed that natural supplies run short easily. Histidine can be found in: meat, dairy products and grains such as rice, wheat and rye.

• Water: keeping your skin hydrated encourages a healthy NMF (natural moisture factor) which in turn, protects your skin from environmental factors. It is also important to drink plenty of fluids after sun exposure to prevent dehydration.

And, last but not least, there are a couple of SOPHYTO Organics products that should be in your sun-protection regime as well…

• Polyphenol Skin Drops: formulated with polyphenol extracts derived from apples, grapes, olive leaf, green and white tea. Combine this with your sunscreen to boost antioxidant protection within the epidermis.

• Mega Omegas Day Face Moisturiser: rich in vegetable Omega 3 Fatty Acids which reduce inflammation, protect your skin and keep it supple. This moisturizer also contains biological filters such as shea butter and raspberry oil. Raspberry seed oil offers the skin broad spectrum protection from damaging UVA and UVB rays. The SPF of red raspberry seed oil has been found to be equal to that of titanium dioxide and has been rated to have an SPF as high as 28-50. Bonus!

And, there you have it folks: thus completes our little sun rundown. As always, if you have any questions for Ishtar, just drop us a line or leave a comment…

Having not been in the UK for some weeks now, the fact that we are in the middle of The UK Soil Association’s annual Organic Fortnight nearly passed me by for once. This year’s event - September 5-20 - is focused around eating organic on a budget, specifically hosting a dinner party to raise money for a charity of your choice. If you’re interested, Dinner4Good has all the details… you even invite people online and they can see what you’re cooking and donate as they wish… sounds like fun (provided your host can cook, of course!)

Meanwhile, the SA will no doubt be delighted to learn that the OrganicUK campaign - fronted by food and farming alliance Sustain - has already accrued £165,000. The target is £500,000 so they’re still a way off, but every little helps… The initiative is aiming to use the donations for a 3-year multi-faceted industry-wide advertising campaign, starting next year. Green & Blacks, Rachel’s and Yeo Valley are among those that have pledged money to date.

Most of us know to look for a measure of SPF on our sunscreen, and that the higher the number, the more protection it gives but how much more protection does SPF 30 give than SPF 8? How is the measurement created and why doesn’t it protect us from all of the sun’s rays? SOPHYTO’s bioesthetician Ishtar Magally has the answers…

SPF stands for Sun Protection Factor and is a measure that indicates how long it takes for UVB rays to produce an erythematogenous response (redness of the skin).

SPF only measures UVB protection, it does not rate how much protection you get from UVA rays. This is why SPF is considered an imperfect system for measuring UV skin damage.

UVA radiation is measured using other methods like the Persistent Pigment Darkening (PPD) and the Boots Star System (for both UVA and UVB rays).

SPF ranges from as low as 2 to as high as 100. The higher the SPF, the longer the duration of protection/effectiveness offered by a specific sunscreen will be. A minimum SPF of 15 is required to shield our skin from UVB rays. It is recommended, though, that a SPF 30 or higher is used for extended exposure.

There is a widespread misconception that sunscreens with a very high SPF provide twice as much protection as sunscreens with low to medium SPF.
All the confusion created by these misleading protection factors has caused several countries such as Australia (SPF 30+) and the European Union (SPF 50+) to adopt labeling restrictions.

The real percentage of UVB rays screened by the various SPFs does not differ considerably as shown below:

• SPF 15 blocks 93% UVB rays

• SPF 30 blocks 96.7% UVB rays

• SPF 50 blocks 98% UVB rays

• SPF 100 blocks 99% UVB rays

Why do we tan in the sun?

A sun tan is a defense mechanism of the skin against UV radiation to prevent further DNA damage. Skin exposure to moderate UVA radiation triggers the release, and subsequent oxidation, of melanin granules into the epidermal layers of the skin causing a quick but lasting tan. On the other hand, moderate exposure to UVB rays stimulates the melanocyte cells into secreting more melanin and produce a slow developing tan.

Then why do we burn?

Sun burn is the direct result of cellular destruction caused by chronic solar exposure. When melanin and urocanic acid along with sunscreens fail to protect our skin from harmful UV radiation, another skin defense mechanism comes into action. Damaged skin cells release histamine, a protein involved in allergy reactions. Histamine triggers an inflammatory response as a way of protecting the skin from further damage. Chronic sun exposure can cause a wide array of skin conditions including: melasma, hyperkeratosis (thickening of the skin), solar elastosis (degeneration of connective tissue - wrinkles, sagging).

Check back for tips on how to stay healthy in the sun in Ishtar’s final installment on sun care:

Well, wrong unfortunately. We used to think we were helping ourselves by going to any old pharmacy and choosing a sunscreen with the highest SPF (Sun Protection Factor) available. But, thanks to years of research, we now know different. SOPHYTO’s Bioesthetician Ishtar Magally is here with the low-down:

What do sunscreens do?

Sunscreens are topical formulas that protect the skin from the harmful effects of the sun. Sunscreens absorb, reflect and/or scatter UV radiation on skin that has been exposed to sunlight. They are usually available as creams, lotions, gels, sprays, lip balms and mineral makeup.They prevent solar erythema, reduce the risk of skin cancer, photo-aging, photo-dermatosis and/or photo-sensitivity.

Sunscreens contain one or several UV filters:

• Physical or total filters: inorganic compounds that act by reflecting, absorbing and/or scattering solar radiation. A UV/Visible light shield effect is achieved. The most utilized substances are titanium dioxide and zinc oxide. Talc, iron oxides and silicates are also used.

• Chemical or partial filters: aromatic organic compounds. They act by selectively absorbing solar rays (UVA A, UVA B) and causing a variation in their structure, which eliminates its potential for harm. Some of the most utilized substances are: PABA (para-aminobenzoic acid), oxibenzone, benzophenone, octyl methoxycinnamate, octocrylene, oxybenzone, octyl salicylate, ethylhexyl salicylate…

• Biological filters: of natural origin. They act by absorbing or neutralizing the negative effects of solar radiation (antioxidant effect/scavengers of free radicals) which is responsible for photo-induced ageing (actinic ageing) and skin cancer. These filters also improve the appearance and elasticity of the skin as well as strengthen its immune system. Among the most utilized biological filters are: Vitamin C, Vitamin E, sesame seed oil, avocado oil, wheat germ oil, shea butter and raspberry oil.

Sunblock or Broad Spectrum Sunscreens: prevent sunburn and minimize tanning by forming a physical barrier which blocks UVA, UVB and Visible light. There are 2 types of sunblocks: invisible and opaque. Invisible sunblocks act by trapping ultraviolet radiation whereas opaque sunblocks prevent absorption of solar radiation.

The Body’s Natural Sunscreens: Melanin and Urocanic acid

• Melanin is a natural pigment derived from the amino acid tyrosine. It is found in animals (especially vertebrates), plants and protists (very simple-celled organisms). In humans, melanin compounds are produced and stored by skin cells called melanocytes. Melanin pigments determine the color of the skin and hair, the iris, the inner ear and more.

• There are 2 types of melanin present in human skin and hair: Pheomelanin, which imparts a pink/red hue; and Eumelanin, which imparts a brown/black hue.

• Melanin pigmentation is our body’s physiological defense mechanism against UV radiation which aims to protect the DNA of our cells from mutating.

• Melanin is a photo-protectant; it absorbs harmful UV radiation, transforms the energy and dissipates it (more than 99% of absorbed radiation) as harmless heat while keeping generation of free radicals to a minimum. Sunscreens can not dissipate the radiation energy as effectively as melanin and, therefore, the amount of free radicals present in the skin increases.

• Urocanic Acid is a by-product of the catabolism of histidine, an amino acid found in the outermost layer of the skin.

• UVB radiation activates the synthesis of urocanic acid and increases its concentration levels on the epidermis. Urocanic acid is part of the skin’s natural defense mechanism. It is a photo-protectant capable of absorbing harmful UV radiation Urocanic acid prevents sun burn, not sun tan.

In Ishtar’s next installment, she’ll be explaining the concept of SPF.

If, like many British citizens, you feel you could possibly be a bit greener than you are right now, then maybe some regular visits to The Daily Green could help…

The Daily Green really is a bottomless pit of interesting, as well as useful, information on all things to do with green living - from new veggie recipes, to the latest green celebrity shenanigans and comments on current affairs as they happen - most recently, the California fires and Hurricane Jimena.

I was particularly drawn into several articles on the manifold problems arising from the common usage of Triclosan in household products - hormone interference and resistance to bacteria to name just two.

In addition, I learned about Project Green Search - the competition to find the US’ greenest chick, which sounds pretty amazing. Prizes include a modeling contract, a session with a notable fashion photographer, eco-clothes, magazine features, not to mention a year as the face of Project Green search… Tempted? If being beautiful on the inside is more important to you than what you see in the mirror and you have green passion running through your veins… why not give it a shot?!

Whoops - this post seems to have gotten hidden somewhere along the way. Sorry about that folks!

Following on from our discussions about the menopause, this time SOPHYTO’s Bioesthetician Ishtar Magally explains how the fluctuating hormone levels can affect the condition of the skin during the menopause… and highlights which man-made chemicals (Xenoestrogens) can exacerbate hormonal fluctuations.

How menopause affects the skin

• The skin’s Natural Moisture Factor (NMF) diminishes due to low estrogen levels.
• The skin’s pH increases which reduces the skin’s defenses against bacterial and viral infections as well as environmental toxins.
• An increase in hyperpigmentations, caused by infections, lack of NMF and/or reduced cortisol levels.
• Increased sensitivity is caused by the lack of NMF and a high skin pH.
• Compromised immunity is due to the diminished NMF, high skin pH and low progesterone levels.
• Wrinkles, dryness and dehydration are caused by a lack of NMF (the skin is no longer able to retain water).
• Transepidermal Water Loss is caused by an inability to retain water and excessive sweating produced by hot flashes and night sweats.
• As estrogen levels decrease, blood circulation slows. Slow blood flow can cause a myriad of problems including an underactive metabolism, dark under-eye circles and under-eye bags.
• Dimished hormone levels cause a drop in elastin and collagen production resulting in wrinkles and lax skin.
• Breast Ptosis: sagging or dropping of breast tissue.
• Hormone withdrawal can cause Formication, a sensation which resembles insects crawling on or under the skin!
• Sluggish skin metabolism. The skin renewal cycle diminishes in proportion to age, i.e. 40% at age 40, 50% at age 50 and so on. As a result, layers of dead skin cells accumulate on the surface of the skin.
• Undernourished skin appears thinner and denser with decreased permeability.
• Adiposis (accumulation of body fat).
• Acne. Without adequate levels of Progesterone, inhibition of 5-alpha reductase is not possible. This enzyme converts less potent androgens such as testosterone and androsterone into the very potent DHT (dihydrotestosterone) which has a greater effect on sebum production.
• Sebum over-secretion. High androgen levels encourages enlargement of the sebaceous glands. Large sebaceous glands secrete an equally large amount of sebum which can result in acne.
• Hirsutism: excess hair growth on the face and/or body due to high levels of androgens.
• Androgenic Alopecia (hair loss).

Prescriptions:  women taking HRT (Hormone Replacement Therapy) can experience some side effects such as Telangiectasias (small dilated blood vessels), larger and darker moles, melasma, cherry angiomas (benign vascular tumors) and Rosacea. Androgen production can be stimulated by birth control pills.

Beware Xenoestrogens, the hidden hazard

Xenoestrogens are man-made compounds which have estrogenic effects but they differ in their chemical structure from naturally occurring estrogens. The have both an ecological and a health impact. They cause the estrogenisation of the environment (which also causes disturbances in wildlife), hormone imbalances in females, sterility, endometriosis, birth defects, liver and kidney damage, early breast development and they have also been linked to breast cancer.

Xenoestrogens are widely used by the chemical, agricultural, cosmetic and industrial companies but they are rarely listed on products labels.

Whether you are dealing with menopause symptoms or just want to prepare your body for a healthy menopause, it is a good idea to steer clear of these chemicals.

* Chemicals shown to have estrogenic effects:

• alkylphenol
• atrazine (weedkiller)
• 4-Methylbenzylidene camphor (4-MBC) (in sunscreen lotions)
• butylated hydroxyanisole/BHA (food preservative)
• bisphenol A (monomer for polycarbonate plastic and epoxy resin; antioxidant in plasticizers)
• dichlorodiphenyldichloroethylene (one of the breakdown products of DDT)
• dieldrin (insecticide)
• DDT (insecticide)
• endosulfan (insecticide)
• erythrosine / FD&C Red No. 3 (food additives)
  
• ethinylestradiol (combined oral contraceptive pill - released into the environment as a xenoestrogen)
• heptachlor (insecticide)
• lindane/hexachlorocyclohexane (insecticide)
• metalloestrogens (a class of inorganic xenoestrogens)
• methoxychlor (insecticide)
• nonylphenol and derivatives (industrial surfactants; emulsifiers for emulsion polymerization; laboratory detergents; pesticides)
• polychlorinated biphenyls/PCBs (in electrical oils, lubricants, adhesives, paints)
• parabens (lotions)
• phenosulfothiazine (a red dye)
• phthalates (plasticizers)
• DEHP (plasticizer for PVC)
• Propyl gallate (antioxidant additive used in food and cosmetics)

* Source: Wikipedia

Next time, in our last menopause installment, Ishtar tells us how to care for our skin’s changing needs during this turbulent time.

It’s difficult to know what to think about sun exposure, isn’t it? On the one hand, we’re told to cover up and not expose ourselves in the hottest part of the day and to wear SPF at all times… but at the same time, we do need to feel the sun on our skin, to keep it, as well as the rest of us, healthy. So, how should we approach the sun? SOPHYTO’s bioesthetician Ishtar Magally has the facts…

On the Bright Side

The sun is indispensable for life on Earth and provides several health benefits.

Positive physiological effects of sunlight:

• Stimulates the synthesis of vitamin D, which prevents rickets and osteoporosis.
• Improves circulation, by dilating blood vessels.
• Beneficial in the treatment of some dermatosis (skin disorders).
• Acts as an antidepressant, stimulates the production of specific neurotransmitters which are responsible for our state of mind.

However, the sun does emit radiation, which can have negative affects on our bodies. The most common negative effects are solar erythema (redness/irritation) sunstroke, allergies (rashes), photo-ageing (also known as actinic aging), eye diseases, a compromised immune system and, in very extreme cases, skin cancer.

The different types of radiation:

• Infrared light (calorific effect): Infrared light penetrates the hypodermis (subcutaneous tissue) and causes dilation of blood vessels.

• Visible light (luminous effect): the only type of radiation that the human eye can see. Visible light can penetrate the dermis.

• Ultraviolet light (biological effect): The electromagnetic waves of Ultraviolet light have frequencies higher than those that humans identify as violet color, hence their name. Ultraviolet light is made up of UVA, UVB and UVC wavelengths:
• UVA rays are known as The Tanning Rays (UVA is the dominant tanning radiation). They are the least damaging UV rays, they rarely cause erythema. UVA radiation is not absorbed by the ozone layer and 30% to 50% of these rays can reach the dermal layer of the skin. UVA rays are responsible for photo-ageing and studies indicate they can initiate the development of skin cancers of the epidermis (basal and squamous cell cancer).
• UVB rays are partially absorbed by the ozone layer and generate more energy than UVA rays. Their intensity is greatly influenced by time of the day, season and location. UVB rays are at their peak between 10 AM and 4 PM (Daylight saving time). They are especially intense at high altitudes and on reflective surfaces such as snow, which bounces back up to 85% of the rays. UVB radiation penetrates the epidermis, contributes to tanning and stimulates the body into producing Vitamin D. However, overexposure to UVB radiation can cause sunburn, photo-aging and several forms of skin cancer (melanoma, squamous cell cancer and basal cell carcinoma).
• UVC are the most dangerous UV rays but they do not reach the Earth’s surface as they are completely absorbed by the ozone layer (at present - however, the ozone layer is depleting by 0.5% every year due to the accumulation of CFCs, chlorofluorocarbons). UVC rays do have powerful antibacterial properties (an artificial form is still being used in sterilizers).

Solar radiation can be extremely detrimental if we don’t take the preventative measures to protect our skin - the most important of these being daily sunscreen application. However, there are sunscreens and sunscreens - some natural, some chemical, some physical, some preferable, some not so much… In Ishtar’s next installment, she’ll be discussing the merits of different types of sun protection available, so check back with us soon for that.