I realise it might seem a bit cruel talking about sun exposure to those who have been drowning like rats in the UK… but as you will see below, if we use computers or light bulbs(!), SPFs are something we should be thinking about all year round. So, why do we turn brown or red in the sun? And how can we optimise the former and restrict the latter? SOPHYTO’s bioesthetician Ishtar Magally has a few suggestions:

Sun-tanning

A sun tan is the skin’s defense mechanism against UV radiation to prevent further DNA damage. Skin exposure to moderate UVA radiation triggers the release, and subsequent oxidation, of melanin granules into the epidermal layers of the skin causing a quick but lasting tan. On the other hand, moderate exposure to UVB rays stimulates the melanocyte cells into secreting more melanin to produce a slow developing tan.

Sun Burn

Chronic sun exposure destroys cells. To protect themselves the damaged cells release histamine, a protein involved in allergy reactions. Histamine triggers an inflammatory response as a way of protecting the skin from further damage, which appears as varying degrees of redness. However, other - sometimes less visible - effects include: melasma, hyperkeratosis (thickening of the skin), solar elastosis (degeneration of connective tissue, leading to wrinkled, sagging skin) and skin cancer.

Nb. A sun burn NEVER turns into a sun tan.

How to keep your skin looking great, while enjoying the sun:

• Use fresh sunscreen; sunscreen can lose its potency. It is recommended that you purchase a new bottle every year.

• Get at least 20 minutes of UV rays daily without sunscreen (preferably before 10 a.m or after 4 pm) to get your dose of natural vitamin D.
  

  

• Use a sunscreen with an SPF of 15 or higher every day. Apply 1 ounce (2 tbs) of sunscreen to dry skin - all over - 30 minutes before going outside. Re-apply every 2 hours, or immediately after swimming or excessive sweating. Re-apply at least every 2 hours, or immediately after sweating profusely. Water resistant sunscreens need to be re-applied every 40 minutes. If using a very water resistant sunscreen make sure you re-apply it after 80 minutes of water exposure.

• Wear protective clothes, such as a broad-brimmed hat and sunglasses (the eyes are not capable of generating natural defense mechanisms against UV radiation like the skin does).

• Apply sunscreen whenever you are exposed to light bulbs, lamps, TVs, computers, etc as well. These are artificial sources of radiation and can also cause skin damage.

• Beware of ingredients such as PABA and its derivatives (carcinogenic), benzophenone and its derivatives (suspected photo-carcinogens), as well as nano and micro particles (due to their size they can enter the bloodstream and invade the body’s natural defense systems as well as be more reactive and toxic than larger sized particles).

• Even if the weather is overcast, use sunscreen: UVA A and UVA B can still reach human skin.

• Do not expose yourself to solar radiation if you have recently suffered from sunstroke and/or sun burns.

• Protect children with special sunscreens that provide extra moisture and block both UVA and UVB rays.

• Avoid sun exposure if taking or using photo-sensitizing substances, including some antibiotics (tetracyclines, sulfamides), contraceptives, essential oils, colorants, etc. as they can cause irritation and/ or melasma.

• Seek the shade, especially during the peak hours (between 10am and 4pm).

• Remember that altitude and topography affect how much radiation you will experience. The higher the altitude, the stronger the intensity of radiation and the reflection of solar rays varies according to the surface: snow reflects 85% of radiation; sand 20-40%; water 5–10%, grass 3-5%, etc.

• Avoid tanning and UV tanning booths; they are a source of artificial radiation (primarily UVA) which causes the same adverse effects as harmful sun rays. The high-pressure sunlamps emit 12 times as much UVA as that of the sun. According to a recent study, people who use tanning booths are 1.5 times more likely to develop basal cell carcinoma and 2.5 times more likely to develop squamous cell carcinoma. The first tanning bed exposure in youth increases melanoma risk by 75%. Opt for natural self-tanning lotion and/or airbrush tanning.

• Consult your dermatologist if you notice any unusual skin growth, irritation and/or lesion.

What to eat to boost your protection

Antioxidants help to protect us against UV radiation, so eating antioxidant-rich foods can really boost your skin’s natural defences:

• Cocoa (dark chocolate): contains 4 times as many phenols and catechins (antioxidants) as tea. These antioxidants protect our skin from sunburn and skin cancer. Milk should not be added to the chocolate as it interferes with the absorption of its antioxidants. Recommended dose: 2 ounces of dark chocolate daily. (Wow, that’s a fair bit of chocolate… You don’t need to tell me twice…I’m on board with this one, for sure. Who knew it was so good for us!)

• Green and black teas: rich in polyphenols - one of the most powerful botanical antioxidants known today. They offer unrivalled action against free radical exposure which is responsible for 80% of skin ageing and can boost your skin’s antioxidant protection from the inside out. According to a study, drinking two or more cups of either black or green tea reduces the risk of developing squamous cell skin cancer by 30%.

• Micro-algae: eg. chlorella and spirulina, contain a carotenoid called Astaxanthin, which is 550 times more powerful than Vitamin E, and it has been shown to protect the skin and eyes against Ultraviolet radiation.
  

• Carotenoids: are antioxidants which reduce the negative effects of UVB radiation. Carotenes are unoxygenated carotenoid compounds which provide pigment to fruits and vegetables. This pigment is used by plants as sunscreen and can activate melanin. Foods containing high concentrations of carotenes are: apricots, papaya, mango, carrots, sweet potatoes and beets.

• Lycopene: is a red carotenoid which protects the skin against sunburn and skin cancer (has an SPF of about 3). Foods high in lycopene include watermelon, tomatoes, papaya, pink guava, red bell peppers and pink grapefruit. Watermelon is especially rich in lycopene, it contains 40% more lycopene than tomatoes.

• Pomegranates: contain powerful polyphenol compounds such as catechins and anthocyanins which strengthen the skin`s upper layers, thus increasing its resistance to harmful UV rays.

• Tocotrienols: are a group of compounds which belong to the Vitamin E family. They are 30-60 times more powerful than tocopherols thus, they neutralize free radical activity at a faster rate. Tocotrienols are capable of reducing/absorbing penetration of UV radiation. Barley, rye, oats, annatto oil, rice bran oil and palm oil are natural, rich sources of tocotrienols.

• Vitamin C: prevents premature ageing and skin cancer by warding off free radicals. The best natural sources of Vitamin C are acerola cherry, rose hip, berries, guava, kiwi, papaya and all citrus fruits.

• Vitamin D: it protects against many types of cancer, including skin cancer. Supplementation is advisable for people who live in areas with long winters and/or people who do not sunbathe.

• Broccoli: has anti-cancerous effects and is rich in an antioxidant called sulphoraphane. A research showed that sulphoraphane helps body cells to protect themselves against the ravages of UV radiation.

• Green leafy vegetables: according to a study, spinach, kale and swiss chard may reduce risk of squamous cell skin cancer by 50 percent.

• Omega 3 fatty acids: can reduce inflammation, protect your skin from sunburn and melanoma (a deadly form of skin cancer). Salmon, sardines, herring, mackerel, algae/seaweed, green leafy vegetables, flax, hemp and chia seeds are rich sources of Omega 3 fatty acids.

• Orange peels: 1 tsp. per week reduces the risk of squamous cell skin cancer.

• Histidine-rich foods: stimulate healthy production of urocanic acid (a natural photo-protectant). Although adult humans produce this amino acid, it is believed that natural supplies run short easily. Histidine can be found in: meat, dairy products and grains such as rice, wheat and rye.

• Water: keeping your skin hydrated encourages a healthy NMF (natural moisture factor) which in turn, protects your skin from environmental factors. It is also important to drink plenty of fluids after sun exposure to prevent dehydration.

And, last but not least, there are a couple of SOPHYTO Organics products that should be in your sun-protection regime as well…

• Polyphenol Skin Drops: formulated with polyphenol extracts derived from apples, grapes, olive leaf, green and white tea. Combine this with your sunscreen to boost antioxidant protection within the epidermis.

• Mega Omegas Day Face Moisturiser: rich in vegetable Omega 3 Fatty Acids which reduce inflammation, protect your skin and keep it supple. This moisturizer also contains biological filters such as shea butter and raspberry oil. Raspberry seed oil offers the skin broad spectrum protection from damaging UVA and UVB rays. The SPF of red raspberry seed oil has been found to be equal to that of titanium dioxide and has been rated to have an SPF as high as 28-50. Bonus!

And, there you have it folks: thus completes our little sun rundown. As always, if you have any questions for Ishtar, just drop us a line or leave a comment…