Sophyto’s experts are here to help you - every week day between 11am-3pm (EST & GMT). Before you fire away with your questions, we thought you might want to know a bit more about them and how they came to be here.

First up, we have Francoise Rapp, a bioesthetician, aromatherapist, perfumer and French/English bilinguist…

1. What is your role at Sophyto and how does your background help you fulfil it?

I actually have several different roles at Sophyto. As the bio-aromatiques and skin health expert, I design bio-aromatique blends, which promote perfect wellness and enhance the potency of each Sophyto skincare product. As European skin health expert, I support our customers via our UK website. I am also the brand ambassador for France and work at sustaining the Sophyto philosophy through its expanding distribution.

I have more than 20 years’ experience in the fragrance, beauty and spa industries. In 1984, I graduated at the Carita School of Esthetics in Paris, going on to work with top names in the industry, including Annick Goutal, developing a wide range of exclusive aromatiques and cosmetics for their exquisite face and body treatments. But it was while living in California for more than 10 years before this that I gained a reputation as an alchemist and cutting-edge aromatherapist and perfumer, creating genuine elixirs and sustainable perfumes. During that time I built my expertise as a creative designer and aromatherapy educator.

Back in Paris I published a best-selling aromatherapy book L’Aromathérapie et ses bienfaits and was invited to be a key speaker at the International Congress of Esthetics - Les Nouvelles Esthétiques.

Being part of the Sophyto team has allowed me to express the richness of my expertise: from product development, to educating our customers and guiding them on their path to perfect skin balance and wellness.

2. How and why did you navigate towards a natural and organic lifestyle?

My parents brought me up to eat healthy and consciously - but it was also a cultural influence. In France, we readily enjoy many different varieties of foods: we indulge in gourmet, unhealthy treats and country products, but we have a healthy life style in general. We eat many fresh vegetables and fruits and small portions. Our diet is low in sugar, salt and fat. Growing up, I became more conscious of the impact of chemicals and read up on water issues and pesticides etc and then in California I adopted a truly organic lifestyle.

I qualified as a bio-esthetician in San Diego and developed personalised organic facials, using clay, essential oils, hydrosols and fresh ingredients. The effects on my clientele were very impressive. I felt totally in alignment with my philosophy about bridging beauty, health and wellness; it all made sense. When I came back to Paris and worked for Annick Goutal, I was in charge of designing protocols for the company’s face/body treatments as well as training the team of professionals. I adapted my vision to its luxury business and Annick Goutal spas flourished all around the world to great reviews. Becoming pregnant with my daughter three years ago triggered an even greater awareness of living organically, especially as I developed a strong sensitivity to pollution and chemicals.

3. Where is home for you? What is the environment like there and how does this affect your skin?

I live in Nantes, France, close to the Atlantic Ocean. Nantes is a city, and as with any city, there is pollution from the traffic and industrial surroundings. The continental climate and pollution make my skin dryer and more reactive. It is easily aggravated by the cold, heat and wind, which is quite strong here. If I don’t use the right products, my skin becomes very tight, inflamed with redness on my cheeks and it wrinkles faster.

4. What skin/hair types do you have and what challenges do they create?

My skin is normal/dry and reactive, with some thin wrinkles on the eye contour and between the eyebrows. Owing to these skin conditions and the fact that it is very fair, I have the challenge of protecting my skin from the sun, the cold and the wind. It reacts badly and becomes blotchy when I don’t use the right products. I use beauty products that are highly pure and organic, enriched with valuable nutrients. I can really feel it when my skin has not received sufficient nourishing, hydrating, and rejuvenating nutrients.

The water here is hard so I need to anoint my body thoroughly with a rich and hydrating body lotion or dry oil every morning after showering. My hair dark brown hair is thin and normal, but I use a nourishing hair mask with organic shea butter once a week because it dries out easily.

5. What is your beauty regime? How rigidly do you stick to this?

In France we are trained to take care of our skin from a very young age! We watch our mothers and then quickly adopt our own routine. In the morning, I use Sophyto Purify & Energize Super Bioactive, Polyphenol Skin Drops, Mega Omegas Day Face Cream and Chanel makeup. At night, I use Sophyto Ultra Mild Silken Cleanser, Super Bioactive Purify & Energize, Multivitamin Skin Drops and an aromatherapy facial oil blend I create according to my skin’s needs. I love to breathe it in and massage it thoroughly. This is my ritual for a great relaxing evening and restful sleep. It just sweeps all the tension away.

5. What are your 5 must-have beauty/health products?

Apart from Sophyto you mean?! A set of essential oils: Rose, Lavender, Sweet Orange, Ylang Ylang, Rosemary, Sage; Green Magma Barley Juice Powder; Heure Exquisite by Annick Goutal; Weleda Rose Body; Santa Maria Novella Rose Water; Dr Bach Rescue Remedy.

6. What are your top 3 tips for maintaining great skin?

1. Invest in good nutritious food for you and your skin.
2. Do weekly home face treatments, including exfoliation, a nourishing mask, and a face massage with an aromatherapy blend specially made according to your skin’s needs.
3. Avoid toxic chemicals - that includes cigarettes, alcohol, and product ingredients, such as parabens.

7. What are your favorite foods? Is it easy for you to eat well or do you have a weakness for unhealthy treats?!

Like all French people, I love food! From multicultural cooking to healthy vegetarian and traditional French cuisine… I love it all. I generally eat healthy foods: fresh steamed vegetables, salads and soups, grains, fresh fish and fruits from local and organic producers. I eat meat once a week from the local organic butcher shop. I do enjoy gourmet and unhealthy treats sometimes such as stews and pastries (strawberry ones are my absolute favourite) and I have a real weakness for bread - the typical French baguette with grains!

8. Do you take any supplements? If so what and why?

I take minerals recommended by my homeopathic doctor at each seasonal change to keep my body in balance. I rarely take any medications and use mostly natural medicine; my doctor is an MD with a specialty in homeopathy and acupuncture.

9. What do you enjoy doing in your spare time to relax?

I love aromatic baths and I usually blend some essential oils determined by how I feel at the time. Being outdoors and walking a lot on the beach or in the countryside helps me to release any tension. I love arts in general and often go to see independent movies, visit art galleries, or roam in libraries.

10. What are your top 5 tips for avoiding/dealing with stress in order to keep your skin and body healthy?

1. Essential oils. I always keep them on hand to inhale, blend and use as an express, indulgent savior.
2. Restful sleep.
3. Fresh air - I practice simple Pranayama exercises and this is a wonderful tool to release tension, ground myself, clear negativity and revitalize my body and skin.
4. Qi Qong exercises help me to stay centered and grounded.
5. Walking allows me to release any tension.

11. If you could change one thing about the world, what would it be?

I would give everyone a proper education and make it not only accessible but considered valuable to gain knowledge of our surroundings, conditions, arts etc. Education and knowledge help us shift our world consciousness. By being aware we change others as well as ourselves.

Talk to Francoise every week day from 11am-3pm GMT at www.sophytoorganics.co.uk/live_chat.

Our bioestheticians have been inundated with insightful questions about organic skin care and all sorts. So, we thought it might be helpful to share some of them with you. We’ll put some of the more succinct Q&As on Facebook and/or Twitter but some people have been asking a series of detailed questions so it seems sensible to convey them as such…

Q: I’m investigating skin care for my 47-year-old husband and 12-year-old son. 
My husband has sensitive skin with some dry patches. He is currently using Sophyto Deep Pore Cleanser, the Purify & Energise Super Bioactive and Mega Omegas Day Face Moisturiser. I am wondering if he should be using anything else? Also I am confused about the way the cleanser should be applied. He has been putting the cleanser on a wet facial pad rather than using his finger tips. Does it matter?

A: Your husband is using the right cleanser and Super Bioactive (toner) but he also needs a serum. Ideally, he should use both serums but considering he is a man (and men usually do not like to use too many products!) I would suggest a nightly application of the Multivitamin Skin Drops prior to applying the moisturiser. Massage the cleanser with the finger tips and then use a cotton pad soaked with either Super Bioactive or purified water to wipe the skin clean.

Q: Should my husband be using an exfoliant? When does the exfoliant get used?

A: Yes, it is advisable to use the exfoliant - Dual Action Exfoliating Treatment - 2-3 times per week to remove all cellular debris/dryness and prep the skin for better absorption of treatment-based products. Apply the exfoliant to cleansed skin, massage for approx. 1 minute, leave it on for 5 minutes then wipe the skin clean and finish with serum and moisturiser.

Q: When does he use the Super Bioctive?

A: Use Super Bioactive to rinse the cleanser. You can either soak a cotton pad with the Super Bioactive and then wipe the skin clean OR soak the cotton pad with purified water to wipe the skin clean and then apply a few drops of Super Bioactive directly on to the face.

Q: So, if I understand correctly, this would be done before applying the exfoliant. What do you use to remove the exfoliant?

A: Yes, you use the Super Bioactive to remove the cleanser and prepare the skin for the application of the exfoliant. Then you remove the exfoliant with another cotton pad soaked with either the Super Bioactive or purified water.

Q: Do you only have one exfoliant?

A: Yes, but all the products micro-exfoliate the skin due to their mildly acidic pH. The Deep Pore Foaming Cleanser is also a mild exfoliant as it contains raw sugar cane extract (natural glycolic acid).

Q: My son is 12. He doesn’t have any signs of acne but does sometimes have dry patches in the cheek area and jaw line. He uses the Sophyto Ultra Mild Silken Cleanser, Super Bioactive and the Normalising Day Face Moisturiser. Should he be using something else? Can he use an exfoliant?

A: For your son I would recommend the Deep Pore Foaming Cleanser (but there’s no need to switch until you have used up the Ultra Mild Silken Cleanser). I would add the Polyphenol Skin Drops, which he can blend into the moisturiser. He can definitely use the exfoliant, but only once a week as he is very young and doesn’t have any impurities. If we saturate a skin with cosmetic formulas when it is young then it is possible that later in life it will not respond to topical treatment.

Q: When should he use the skin drops, morning, night or both?

A: Start with a morning application and if the dryness persists add a nightly application. The serum will also help boost his skin’s protection against UV radiation.

If you have a question or two about the range or your particular skin needs, don’t forget you can chat live to one of our bioestheticians 11am-3pm GMT and EST.

Having seen our posts about pH quoted on a site about the need for soap to be ‘drying’ in order to clean skin properly, we have since been mulling over the merits (or lack thereof) of using soap and water.

The author of TheSoapBlog.com makes a great case for using homemade skin care over chemical-laden manufactured products such as The Dove Beauty Bar. However, we differ on a couple of fundamental points when it comes to the importance of pH and so I have called upon our lovely bioesthetician Ishtar Magally to clarify her thinking…

The author says that the drying effect of soap is not a problem because, “within 20 minutes [of washing], [the acid mantle] is about 1/3 strength and within 2-3 hours, it is back up at full strength.”

However, Ishtar suggests that unfortunately this isn’t quite true. “The skin will be able to restore its stripped oils if, and only if, pH-balanced formulas were used to cleanse it. pH-disturbing formulas will simply strip almost all the natural oils of the skin making it impossible for our glands to restore the normal acid range.

As a result two things could happen here:

1. The skin is unable to replenish the stripped oils leading to dry, sensitive skin.
2. The sebaceous glands produce too much oil as a result of over-stripping, leading to overly oily, acne-prone skin.”

She adds: “The truth is that those of us who have been using pH-balanced formulas for a while know from personal experience what a great difference it makes to keep the skin working within the right pH range.”

This is why we advocate using an all-natural and organic mildly acidic cleanser and toner because soap and water are both too alkaline to promote the healthiest environment for your skin.

If you are still pH-confused (and we understand why you might be), you can read more here.

And don’t forget, if you are in the US you can fire your questions (in English or Spanish) directly to Ishtar on the live chat section of the site 11am-3pm EST Monday to Thursday. And if you are in Europe, you can speak to Francoise 11am-3pm GMT.

I realise it might seem a bit cruel talking about sun exposure to those who have been drowning like rats in the UK… but as you will see below, if we use computers or light bulbs(!), SPFs are something we should be thinking about all year round. So, why do we turn brown or red in the sun? And how can we optimise the former and restrict the latter? SOPHYTO’s bioesthetician Ishtar Magally has a few suggestions:

Sun-tanning

A sun tan is the skin’s defense mechanism against UV radiation to prevent further DNA damage. Skin exposure to moderate UVA radiation triggers the release, and subsequent oxidation, of melanin granules into the epidermal layers of the skin causing a quick but lasting tan. On the other hand, moderate exposure to UVB rays stimulates the melanocyte cells into secreting more melanin to produce a slow developing tan.

Sun Burn

Chronic sun exposure destroys cells. To protect themselves the damaged cells release histamine, a protein involved in allergy reactions. Histamine triggers an inflammatory response as a way of protecting the skin from further damage, which appears as varying degrees of redness. However, other - sometimes less visible - effects include: melasma, hyperkeratosis (thickening of the skin), solar elastosis (degeneration of connective tissue, leading to wrinkled, sagging skin) and skin cancer.

Nb. A sun burn NEVER turns into a sun tan.

How to keep your skin looking great, while enjoying the sun:

• Use fresh sunscreen; sunscreen can lose its potency. It is recommended that you purchase a new bottle every year.

• Get at least 20 minutes of UV rays daily without sunscreen (preferably before 10 a.m or after 4 pm) to get your dose of natural vitamin D.
  

  

• Use a sunscreen with an SPF of 15 or higher every day. Apply 1 ounce (2 tbs) of sunscreen to dry skin - all over - 30 minutes before going outside. Re-apply every 2 hours, or immediately after swimming or excessive sweating. Re-apply at least every 2 hours, or immediately after sweating profusely. Water resistant sunscreens need to be re-applied every 40 minutes. If using a very water resistant sunscreen make sure you re-apply it after 80 minutes of water exposure.

• Wear protective clothes, such as a broad-brimmed hat and sunglasses (the eyes are not capable of generating natural defense mechanisms against UV radiation like the skin does).

• Apply sunscreen whenever you are exposed to light bulbs, lamps, TVs, computers, etc as well. These are artificial sources of radiation and can also cause skin damage.

• Beware of ingredients such as PABA and its derivatives (carcinogenic), benzophenone and its derivatives (suspected photo-carcinogens), as well as nano and micro particles (due to their size they can enter the bloodstream and invade the body’s natural defense systems as well as be more reactive and toxic than larger sized particles).

• Even if the weather is overcast, use sunscreen: UVA A and UVA B can still reach human skin.

• Do not expose yourself to solar radiation if you have recently suffered from sunstroke and/or sun burns.

• Protect children with special sunscreens that provide extra moisture and block both UVA and UVB rays.

• Avoid sun exposure if taking or using photo-sensitizing substances, including some antibiotics (tetracyclines, sulfamides), contraceptives, essential oils, colorants, etc. as they can cause irritation and/ or melasma.

• Seek the shade, especially during the peak hours (between 10am and 4pm).

• Remember that altitude and topography affect how much radiation you will experience. The higher the altitude, the stronger the intensity of radiation and the reflection of solar rays varies according to the surface: snow reflects 85% of radiation; sand 20-40%; water 5–10%, grass 3-5%, etc.

• Avoid tanning and UV tanning booths; they are a source of artificial radiation (primarily UVA) which causes the same adverse effects as harmful sun rays. The high-pressure sunlamps emit 12 times as much UVA as that of the sun. According to a recent study, people who use tanning booths are 1.5 times more likely to develop basal cell carcinoma and 2.5 times more likely to develop squamous cell carcinoma. The first tanning bed exposure in youth increases melanoma risk by 75%. Opt for natural self-tanning lotion and/or airbrush tanning.

• Consult your dermatologist if you notice any unusual skin growth, irritation and/or lesion.

What to eat to boost your protection

Antioxidants help to protect us against UV radiation, so eating antioxidant-rich foods can really boost your skin’s natural defences:

• Cocoa (dark chocolate): contains 4 times as many phenols and catechins (antioxidants) as tea. These antioxidants protect our skin from sunburn and skin cancer. Milk should not be added to the chocolate as it interferes with the absorption of its antioxidants. Recommended dose: 2 ounces of dark chocolate daily. (Wow, that’s a fair bit of chocolate… You don’t need to tell me twice…I’m on board with this one, for sure. Who knew it was so good for us!)

• Green and black teas: rich in polyphenols - one of the most powerful botanical antioxidants known today. They offer unrivalled action against free radical exposure which is responsible for 80% of skin ageing and can boost your skin’s antioxidant protection from the inside out. According to a study, drinking two or more cups of either black or green tea reduces the risk of developing squamous cell skin cancer by 30%.

• Micro-algae: eg. chlorella and spirulina, contain a carotenoid called Astaxanthin, which is 550 times more powerful than Vitamin E, and it has been shown to protect the skin and eyes against Ultraviolet radiation.
  

• Carotenoids: are antioxidants which reduce the negative effects of UVB radiation. Carotenes are unoxygenated carotenoid compounds which provide pigment to fruits and vegetables. This pigment is used by plants as sunscreen and can activate melanin. Foods containing high concentrations of carotenes are: apricots, papaya, mango, carrots, sweet potatoes and beets.

• Lycopene: is a red carotenoid which protects the skin against sunburn and skin cancer (has an SPF of about 3). Foods high in lycopene include watermelon, tomatoes, papaya, pink guava, red bell peppers and pink grapefruit. Watermelon is especially rich in lycopene, it contains 40% more lycopene than tomatoes.

• Pomegranates: contain powerful polyphenol compounds such as catechins and anthocyanins which strengthen the skin`s upper layers, thus increasing its resistance to harmful UV rays.

• Tocotrienols: are a group of compounds which belong to the Vitamin E family. They are 30-60 times more powerful than tocopherols thus, they neutralize free radical activity at a faster rate. Tocotrienols are capable of reducing/absorbing penetration of UV radiation. Barley, rye, oats, annatto oil, rice bran oil and palm oil are natural, rich sources of tocotrienols.

• Vitamin C: prevents premature ageing and skin cancer by warding off free radicals. The best natural sources of Vitamin C are acerola cherry, rose hip, berries, guava, kiwi, papaya and all citrus fruits.

• Vitamin D: it protects against many types of cancer, including skin cancer. Supplementation is advisable for people who live in areas with long winters and/or people who do not sunbathe.

• Broccoli: has anti-cancerous effects and is rich in an antioxidant called sulphoraphane. A research showed that sulphoraphane helps body cells to protect themselves against the ravages of UV radiation.

• Green leafy vegetables: according to a study, spinach, kale and swiss chard may reduce risk of squamous cell skin cancer by 50 percent.

• Omega 3 fatty acids: can reduce inflammation, protect your skin from sunburn and melanoma (a deadly form of skin cancer). Salmon, sardines, herring, mackerel, algae/seaweed, green leafy vegetables, flax, hemp and chia seeds are rich sources of Omega 3 fatty acids.

• Orange peels: 1 tsp. per week reduces the risk of squamous cell skin cancer.

• Histidine-rich foods: stimulate healthy production of urocanic acid (a natural photo-protectant). Although adult humans produce this amino acid, it is believed that natural supplies run short easily. Histidine can be found in: meat, dairy products and grains such as rice, wheat and rye.

• Water: keeping your skin hydrated encourages a healthy NMF (natural moisture factor) which in turn, protects your skin from environmental factors. It is also important to drink plenty of fluids after sun exposure to prevent dehydration.

And, last but not least, there are a couple of SOPHYTO Organics products that should be in your sun-protection regime as well…

• Polyphenol Skin Drops: formulated with polyphenol extracts derived from apples, grapes, olive leaf, green and white tea. Combine this with your sunscreen to boost antioxidant protection within the epidermis.

• Mega Omegas Day Face Moisturiser: rich in vegetable Omega 3 Fatty Acids which reduce inflammation, protect your skin and keep it supple. This moisturizer also contains biological filters such as shea butter and raspberry oil. Raspberry seed oil offers the skin broad spectrum protection from damaging UVA and UVB rays. The SPF of red raspberry seed oil has been found to be equal to that of titanium dioxide and has been rated to have an SPF as high as 28-50. Bonus!

And, there you have it folks: thus completes our little sun rundown. As always, if you have any questions for Ishtar, just drop us a line or leave a comment…

Since SOPHYTO Organics bioesthetician Ishtar Magally’s last post about Wakame, we’ve had a few enquiries about where to buy it and want to do with it so I thought I’d add a few words…

First of all, you can buy both the dried sea vegetable (whole) and the powdered version from Pacific Botanicals. The company ships product all over the world. If you are in the US, you can also buy powdered Wakame from Healthy Traders.

As for what to do with it, if you are going for the dried veg version, you can hydrate it and put it in soups or salads or stews and all sorts. The Japanese tend to whack it into all kinds of Miso soups and broths. Seaweed salads are also really tasty. I found the following recipes on Black Moon which sound great:

For Miso soup, “Simply soak a teaspoon of the dried seaweed in water and after it swells up (20 minutes), squeeze out the excess water, chop into bite sized pieces and place into small bowls. Ladle the miso soup over the seaweed and serve.

The following recipe is for one of the most delicious salads that I know of, in any cuisine! It’s made from wakame seaweed and kyuri (Japanese cucumbers).

In a serving bowl, combine the chopped wakame with the cucumber slices and mix well. Pour the chilled dressing over the vegetables and toss. Serve in small bowls topped with some white sesame seeds.”

I love wakame salad with sushi and I have also had it with ordinary cucumber which is delicious too so don’t worry if you can’t get hold of the Kyuri mentioned above.

Kate Heyhoe, author of Cooking Green, has also published her own version of wakame salad, which includes red pepper flakes…

Hope that helps… happy wakame cooking and if you discover any other great recipes, do let us know

I always dismissed food combining or ‘The Hay Diet’, as it was known after New Yorker William Howard Hay, as just a-another weight-loss plan and so never bothered to give it much credence. But, thanks to SOPHYTO’s lovely and knowledgeable bioesthetician Ishtar Magally, I have now seen the light.

The modern diet is unhealthy, not only because of the sheer volume of artificial additives and preservatives contained in the food you’ll find in the supermarkets and restaurants, but because of the way the food stuffs are mixed together.

For instance, a sandwich - something most people eat every day for lunch - typically contains bread (which is in itself a mixture of flour, yeast, fat, sugar), butter, meat/fish/cheese and salad. And the problem with that, is even if you can tolerate gluten, dairy and yeast, no-one is able to digest them properly in combination - because the enzymes needed to break down each food group all work at different times and different pHs. Hence the countless purchases of antacids and other digestive aids many of us make every year…

So, what is the solution? To eat foods in specific combinations only. To understand why you should do this, try and get hold of Food Combining Made Easy by Herbert M. Shelton, a doctor from the 1950s (the theory still applies!). Or check out one of the modern versions, such as The Complete Book of Food Combining: A New, Easy-to-Use Guide to the Most Successful Diet Ever by Kathryn Marsden; or her other books, Food Combining: In a nutshell and Food Combining: A Step-By-Step Guide.

But, in the meantime, here are the main rules to follow:

1. Eat acids and starches at separate meals. eg. Don’t eat lemons or tomatoes with rice.
2. Eat protein and starches at separate meals. eg. Don’t eat bread or potatoes with meat/fish/cheese.
3. Eat ONE type of protein at any meal. eg. Don’t do surf and turf, even if it’s just with salad.
4. Eat protein and acids at separate meals. eg. Don’t eat lemons or oranges with meat/fish.
5. Eat fats and proteins at separate meals. eg. Don’t eat cheese/butter/oil with bacon.
6. Eat sugars and proteins at separate meals. eg. Don’t eat sweets after a steak dinner.
7. Eat starches and sugars at separate meals. eg. NEVER eat cakes or cookies or sugary cereals.
8. Eat melons alone.
9. Drink milk alone.
10. Eat fruit at a fruit meal - not with other foods, except salad greens.
11. Don’t eat avocados with other proteins or sweet fruits.
12. Beans/peas are starch-protein complexes which should be treated as proteins and only eaten with greens.

So, where does that leave us? Well pretty buggered in terms of modern cuisine… as I discovered this past week while dining out and about.

Essentially, that means it is best to have fruit for breakfast if you are going to have it, and then a big salad with a protein and veggies for lunch and salad, veggies and a starch eg. sweet potato, rice, quinoa for dinner. Or the other way around.

It’s not easy. In restaurants, salads come with a dressing (acid) unless you state otherwise, proteins are often mixed, as are starches and sugars… so you have to be very vigilant and specify what you want. And so many foods are off limits - ie. anything remotely processed.

However, I have to say it works. I had a bit of a cookie dough blip this weekend but aside from that I have been combining my butt off! Breakfast is a green smoothie - carrot juice, spinach, spirulina, chlorella and lemon juice (this cuts the green taste making the smoothie pretty palatable), if I can make it though to lunch without eating I then have a big salad with veggies and either fish/avocado/quinoa - otherwise I chomp on lightly steamed veggies mid-morning. And the same again in the afternoon/evening. And if I need it, I’ll have a little bit of chocolate in the evening to stave off insane sugar cravings.

Apparently, a typical modern meal - say, chicken curry with rice, followed by apple pie and ice cream - can take up to 9-12 hours to digest, but if you, like most of us tend to, eat again in that time, it will take even longer and then, if you don’t eliminate it efficiently (because constipation is another common predicament) undigested food will putrify in your intestines… for days, months or even years. Ewwwww! However, a properly combined meal should journey through your system in 3 hours or so… and clear out before the next meal.

It’s not surprising people tend to lose weight eating in this way. Aside from all the healthy greens, giving your body the right combination of foods means it doesn’t have to store undigested foods, which stagnate the system and slow down metabolism.

After 4 days of food combining my skin was glowing and I had more energy than I’d had in years. I’m not sure I will always be able to eat like this - eating out or at others’ houses is tricky, for instance - but I will certainly aim to make it the default stance for feeding myself.

If you have any questions about food combining, drop us a line and we’ll get Ishtar on the case.

We’re still mulling over Michael DeJong’s Citrus Derma Bath here at SOPHYTO HQ. So much so that Ishtar our bioesthetician even dedicated her weekend to checking out Michael’s suggested Derma Bath recipe and (not having a bath tub) enhanced it to make a scrub version that she could use.

Michael’s original Citrus Derma Bath recipe: 3 cups of salt, 4-6 olive oil drops and 2 lemons.

Put the salt in a bowl, added the lemons (cut in thin halves) and finish with some drops of olive oil.

Michael says you should leave the blend to macerate for 20 minutes and then add it to a full bathtub and soak. This bath will help detoxify and soften all of your rough skin patches without any scrubbing or rubbing at all.

Ishtar says: “I think the bath is pH-balanced but I would add a bit more oil if I wanted extra nourishment for my skin.”

Alternatively, if you want something to scrub away the dead skin, Ishtar has come up with the following recipe: 10 tbs pulverized salt (either Dead Sea salts or Epsom Salts), 3 tbs olive oil and the juice of 1/2 a lemon - although I think 1/4 lemon is better for sensitive skin types. I used an electric coffee grinder to pulverize the salts. (Nb. If you can use organic ingredients so much the better)

And the verdict: “It was difficult to get a homogenous blend (the salt separated very easily from the oil and lemon juice) but it felt sooooooooooooo good when I applied this scrub all over my body. It didn’t feel harsh at all, but I was very careful while massaging my neck, dècolletè and hands. I thought the scrub was stimulating, detoxifying and soothing at the same time.

“My skin felt so smooth and nourished that I didn’t have to apply moisturiser afterwards. The shower floor was a bit slippery after rinsing the scrub, though so be careful!”

And there you have it folks - a credit-crunchy body scrub that your skin will love as well. Let us know how you get on with it.

SOPHYTO’s lovely bioesthetician Ishtar Magally is going to guide us through the whys and wherefores of  - the good, the bad and the in between. First up, we have the infamous BOTOX…

What is it?

Botox is the most common commercial name for the highly neurotoxic protein produced by the Clostridium Botulinum bacteria. It has been used in mild doses to treat several ailments, including Strabismus (Crossed eyes) and Blepharospasm (uncontrollable blinking). It is also used for Hyperhidrosis (excessive sweating), Migraine, diabetic neuropathy (nerve disorder), vocal cord disfunction, anal fissure and other nervous/muscular problems.

Botox was granted FDA approval for cosmetic use in 2002 after cosmetic surgeons Drs Alistair and Jean Carruthers observed how patients’ frown lines softened following Botox treatment for eye muscle disorders.

How does it work?

Cosmetically speaking, Botox works by paralyzing the muscles that control facial expression. The effects last approximately 3 to 6 months. The common areas for treatment are the frown lines between the eyes, the platysma muscle (causes tightened bands of skin on the neck), the glabellar (the area between the eye- brows just above the nose), hands and underarms (for excessive sweating). Some doctors use Botox to improve wrinkles around the lips, although this can immobilize them.

What are the side effects?

Side effects from Botox are considered minor and generally arise from over-treatment. They include: nausea; muscle weakness; drooping eyelids; headaches; pain; heartburn/indigestion; tooth problems; hypertension/high blood pressure; dry mouth; flu-like symptoms; bleeding at the site of injection; focal facial paralysis; dysphagia (difficulty swallowing); sore throat; facial immobilization; allergic reactions (rash, hives, swelling or wheezing/difficulty breathing).

One of the most worrying side effects is muscular atrophy. If a muscle is paralysed, it cannot contract and so starts to lose tone. Long-term use of Botox can result in overly thin facial muscles that will require physiotherapy (facial exercises, alternating and micro-currents) to restore tonicity. And research suggests that if users discontinue Botox injections, they can end up with deeper wrinkles than they had before.

Also, studies using cats and rodents have found that the Botox toxins can pass easily to other nerves and muscles surrounding the point of injection - ie. to other parts of the face, or even up into the brain.

Death by Botox is extremely uncommon. The FDA reports 28 deaths ocurring from Botox injection between 1989 and 2003 - and these are attributed to unlicensed (fake) botox or extra-strong doses for non-cosmetic reasons, where the effects have spread beyond the intended site.

Are there any safe, natural, non-invasive alternatives?

YES!

• Topical Hyaluronic Acid: also known as Sodium Hyaluronate, Hyaluronic Acid is the king of hydrators. It is not an acid but a plant-derived carbohydrate capable of holding up to 1,000 times its own weight in water (that’s more water than any other natural or synthetic polymer). Hyaluronic Acid is also produced naturally by the body. It is extremely lubricating, and acts as a natural wrinkle filler as well as providing continuous moisture and plumpness to the skin. With age, the the skin produces less Hyaluronic Acid, leaving the skin wrinkled and sagging. Much of the moisture loss can be replenished using HA in serum form, revitalizing ageing skin. You can find bio-fermented Hyaluronic Acid in SOPHYTO’s Skin Energising High Potency Concentrate.

• Peptides: short polymers (macromolecules) formed from the linking, in a defined order, of amino acids. Skin-wise, peptides work by stimulating the production of new collagen, which helps diminish the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. They renew the skin’s outermost layer to reveal smoother, younger-looking skin. Pentapeptides, unlike AHAs, BHAs, retinoids, etc, plump the skin, diminish wrinkles, get rid of fine lines, without irritation. SOPHYTO’s Purifying Active Mask contains high concentrations of naturally occurring marine (algae-derived) peptides.

I don’t know about you but, after reading all this Botox information I have come to a conclusion: I have yet another reason to frown!

Ishtar Magally Mobarak

Don’t forget, if you have a question for our lovely bioesthetician, Ishtar, just drop me a line and I’ll pass it on…

If you read the back of any skin care product (organic or otherwise) you’re bound to come across a word that sounds pretty scary… Sometimes, they are - eg. parabens and Isohexadecane… but sometimes they just sound scary, when actually they are perfectly natural and even organic - eg. urtica dioica - which is actually nettle herb extract!

So, if you’ve found any ingredients that you’re not sure about and you want some more info, just get in touch and we’ll get one of SOPHYTO’s expert bioestheticians to give you a comprehensive explanation…